A Beautiful Illusion - San Sebastián

Part of my Hemingway Pilgrimages 2025

Panoramic view of San Sebastián and La Concha Bay from Monte Igueldo. The opposite hilltop is Monte Urgull.

It was the evening of a sunny November day.

I had been walking and running around San Sebastián all day, admiring the panorama from two opposite mountain viewpoints - Monte Igueldo and Monte Urgull - and strolling along the iconic crescent-shaped “La Concha” beach promenade in between. 

A star-lit sky was covering the softly illuminated historic center. I was hungry and ready to experience the city’s celebrated culinary scene. In particular, I was keen to try out the Basque tradition of pintxos bar hopping, which involves walking from one pintxo bar (that’s Northern Spanish tapas) to another, enjoying a delicious bite and a drink at each. The best rated establishments had long swirling lines of tourists waiting, even in off-season. But that was all right, I was not in a hurry and had a great book to read while waiting. 

I wanted to visit this city ever since I first read Hemingway’s “The Sun Also Rises”. The legendary writer loved Spain and the Basque Country, and San Sebastián was one of his favorite destinations. It provided a backdrop to the finale of the book which I had read so many times. Therefore I was careful not to expect too much. The world has changed radically since the 1920’s, and the city could have lost its charm. Also, my imagination had probably created a fantasy land. Delightfully, I was proven wrong. San Sebastián turned out to be enchanting, and my caution flew away with the Biscay Bay winds.

Monte Igueldo was not a 100% sporty experience. I could not figure a way to walk all the way up so took the funicular, which is one of the oldest in Spain.

On the opposite mountain top across the bay. Only muscle power was used to get to this viewpoint.

“Brett, is that you?”

I took my eyes off the book. That was not my name, but the stranger’s voice woke me up from the literary trance. After three indulgent pintxos stops, I was taking a breather on the terrace of a French-style café.

“Lady Ashley?”

What? I turned my head and met the eyes of an elegant elderly gentleman in a dark suit, sitting at the next table. He moved his eyes in a deliberate manner to stare at the book’s cover - my old copy of “The Sun Also Rises”. The one I bought over thirty years ago. The one I’ve re-read again and again so that the pages have turned yellow and become curly curly on the corners. 

Of course, I thought, this is San Sebastián so he must be another Hemingway aficionado. Hence the daring reference to the book’s main female character. I looked back at the stranger. He had to be in his eighties, about my Father’s age, but the playful smile was youthful. His eyes were as blue as the scarf around his neck. I decided to play the game. 

“Well hello Jake, old chap!” I responded, faking as best as I could a British accent from the 1920’s. And scrambling to remember some exact lines from the book. The characters spent a lot of time hanging out in bars in Paris and various Spanish cities so I chose a safe one.

“I say, I have a thirst.” 

“What are we drinking?”, he answered, perfectly in role. 

“Definitely not Pernod, it’s not good for you!” 

Our role play stopped there as both burst into laughter. We shook hands but did not share real names. He ordered two glasses of white wine.  

Over the next hour or two, I did not keep track of time, we talked about travel, great wines, favorite hotels and restaurants. Shared our admiration for the Belle Époque architecture in San Sebastián. And Hemingway, of course. Nothing personal. We didn’t even ask where the other person was from. There was no need.

Pintxo bar hopping is heaven for foodies! Much more social than sitting at a starred restaurant but no less spectacular in flavors.

My original copy of the book, bought over 30 years ago. The original reason why I came to San Sebastián.

“La cuenta, por favor!”

It was late. Waiters did not say anything but started moving tables and chairs, as a subtle hint that the café was closing. He asked for the check and insisted on paying. I thanked him for the kindness. 

“No, thank YOU!”, he said, turning quite serious. A silent moment followed.

“You see, this is how I met my wife. 1969. At a bar in New York. She was reading that book. Her favorite, I liked it, too. She was blonde, like you. I walked up to her sitting on that barstool and said the same thing, hello Brett… We got married a year later.” 

His face was lit again with a smile, this time a slightly sad one. 

“We were married for fifty-four years. Not a bad pick-up line, was it?” 

I did not know what to say. Luckily, he continued: 

“She died last year. This is the first time I came to San Sebastián without her. We came here so many times. So many memories,” he sighed. “Thank you, Lady Ashley.” 

“For what, Jake? It was a pleasure”, I responded, filled with compassion.

“The illusion. For a brief moment, I could make believe she was here with me again. Thank you for the beautiful illusion.” 

We said goodbye. I walked back to the hotel. The streets were empty. San Sebastián’s street lights were blurred by the tears in my eyes.

P.S. In addition to everything else in San Sebastián, I absolutely loved my hotel. I have had rooms with a view before but this one also had a shower with a view! I will try to book the very same room next time. Lovely, attentive service, excellent central location.

Hotel Catalonia San Sebastián Donosti https://www.cataloniahotels.com/es/hotel/catalonia-donosti